Best Cities for Architecture Buffs
SPAIN@FriendsTravel.com
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Since hosting the Summer Olympics in 1992, Barcelona has received the attention it deserves as a premier vacation destination. The capital of Spain’s Catalonia region is one of the country’s — maybe even Europe’s — most beautiful and vibrant places. A city of contrasts, it is like no other in Spain; this is most evident in its architecture, a marriage of Gothic spikes and modern curves (one name to keep an eye out for is Antonio Gaudi, Barcelona’s most famous and unique architect).
Barcelona is also a city of neighborhoods, all distinct. The easiest way for visitors to get their bearings is to know that the city is basically divided into two parts. First, there’s the old city, which is where the heart of everything — from museums to shopping to cafes — is based. Then there’s the port area, known as Port Vell, featuring bars, restaurants, shops, an IMAX theater and the largest aquarium in Europe.
In fact, one of Barcelona’s best attributes is that while it seems large and spread out, its neighborhoods are surprisingly walkable and easily accessible by bus, metro or even foot (in comfortable shoes). Don’t miss a stroll along La Rambla, replete with produce and flower stands, a historic opera house, and a thoroughly intriguing open pet market with cages of for-sale lizards, chirping birds and other exotic animals.
Just be sure to rest your feet now and then over a few plates of tapas (which are meant to be shared, but we won’t tell) and an ice-cold pitcher of sangria.
Editor’s Note: Barcelona is notorious for pickpockets, particularly along La Rambla. Leave valuables in your hotel safe, and carry credit cards and cash in a safe place (ideally in a money belt under your clothes). For more information, see our Money Safety Tips.
What to Do
A fabulous promenade leading from the port to Placa de Catalunya, the center of old Barcelona, La Rambla is lined with shops, cafes, flower stalls, street performers and a wonderful food market called Boqueria. You’ll pass by the Gran Teatre del Liceu, Barcelona’s circa-1848 opera house (it was gutted by a fire in 1994 but has been rebuilt). La Rambla ends at the Placa de Catalunya — a huge plaza that’s the heart of the city and is surrounded by shops and cafes.
La Sagrada Familia, Barcelona’s funkiest church, was designed by Gaudi. The most unusual thing about it? It’s not finished yet! He began working on it in 1883 and designed intriguing features such as the bell towers, covered in Venetian mosaics, and the nativity-themed facade, with doorways representing faith, hope and charity. Services are held in the crypt where Gaudi is buried. The best way to experience Sagrada Familia is to take the elevator to the top of one of the towers (though on our visit the elevator was out of order and we hiked up the stairs instead); there’s an awesome view from that height. Also spend some time in the church museum.
The Museu d’art Contemporani de Barcelona (MACBA) is Barcelona’s ode to contemporary art, housing works by major international figures (Klee, Broodthaers) as well as the biggest up and coming Catalonian artists.
Architect Antoni Gaudi designed Palau Guell, a gorgeous late-19th-century palace capped with whimsical, brightly colored chimneys.
Another Gaudi design, Parc Guell is a pleasant public park overlooking the city — a maze of tropical flowers and colorful accents. The entrance is guarded by a mosaic lizard and two fanciful gatehouses (one of which houses a souvenir shop).
Gaudi’s brilliant colors and fantastical designs can be seen at two other must-visit sites: Casa Batllo and Casa Mila (commonly known as La Pedrera), both located on Passeig de Gracia.
For a look at Barcelona at its most gracious, pay a visit to the Eixample neighborhood north of Placa de Catalunya; this is where the city’s toniest boutiques, galleries, antique shops and restaurants are clustered.
 Visit the atmospheric Barri Gotic, Barcelona’s gothic quarter, where the architecture dates back to the 13th century. Streets are winding and narrow, and there are numerous boutiques and antique and artisan galleries. Its best known attractions include the Museu Picasso; founded in 1963, the museum specializes in the works of Pablo Picasso (he donated works himself). Also in the neighborhood is La Seu Cathedral (Pla de la Seu), parts of which date back to 1298 — but it wasn’t actually completed until the late 19th century. Santa Maria del Mar (Carrer Montcada at Placa de Santa Maria) is another cathedral worth inspecting; it is, for this ornate city, unusually simple and quite elegant. It was built between 1329 and 1383.
Sports enthusiasts will enjoy a trip to Olympic Stadium. It existed before the Olympic games were held there, but it was completely remodeled in 1992 just for the occasion. These days, the stadium is used for various events, and is home to baseball team Barcelona Dragons as well as a Barcelona soccer club.
For serious beach time, the best bet is to take a RENFE train to Sant Pol or Sant Pau — both are north of the city and are easy day trips.
The village of Montjuic rises 700 feet above the city’s commercial port and is chock-a-block with cafes, boutiques, art galleries and museums. Not to be missed is Museu Arqueologic (Passeig Santa Madrona 39), which showcases artifacts from prehistoric cultures in both Catalonia and the Balearic Islands. Another highlight is the Fundacio Joan Miro, which features tapestries, paintings and sculptures of Catalonian Joan Miro — he’s considered a Surrealist. Another key art museum is the Museu Nacional d’Art de Catalunya; it’s got one of the world’s premier collections of Romanesque art.
Take a pilgrimage to Montserrat. “The Serrated Mountain” — over 4,000 feet high — is an exquisite setting for a monastery. The original church opened in 1592, though Montserrat is an ongoing work in progress. While the complex includes shops and cafes, the real points of interest are the Basilica Facade and the Black Virgin — the soul of the monastery. Other features include the Placa de Santa Maria with its Gothic cloisters and the museum, which exhibits works of art from Catalania along with West Asia. If you’re visiting in the early afternoon (around 1 p.m.) try to catch the male choir singing Virolai, the hymn of Montserrat. Montserrat is a working monastery and is home to Benedictine monks. It’s easy to get there; a train runs hourly from Barcelona’s Placa Espanya.
One fun attraction right in town is the Museu de l’Erotica, located on La Rambla. More than a tawdry peep show, the museum (the only of its kind in Spain) showcases sexuality through the ages and contains a variety of artifacts from all over the world — everything from Buddhist sculptures to modern-day photography and art.
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Where to Eat
As in the rest of Spain, tapas — or small plates — are very popular in Barcelona. But Catalan cuisine is unique from the food you’ll find elsewhere in Spain, featuring fresh seafood and distinctive sauces. One simple Catalan favorite to try is pa amb tomaquet — sliced bread rubbed with tomato and olive oil. For casual meals, stop by a tapas bar along La Rambla or grab a chorizo sandwich from one of many local stands. If you’re going out for a big restaurant meal, keep in mind that locals eat dinner late (think 9 p.m. and beyond).
Sample Mediterranean and Asian flavors on the fixed-price tasting menus at intimate Con Gracia, where chef Paul Treacy will “surprise” guests with three to five beautifully presented courses at lunch or dinner. Reservations recommended.
Merendero de la Mari is an indoor- and outdoor-dining seafood restaurant on the waterfront in Port Vell. Go for the excellent Catalan-style paella, or the fresh mussels.
For one of Barcelona’s hottest dining experiences, try Comerc 24, where the inventive tapas menu tastes constantly. Can’t get a table? Head to new sister property Tapac24, a tapas bar that’s open daily from 8 a.m. to midnight.
Locals and visitors alike stand in line at Cal Pep to sample what many consider the best seafood in the city. The tortillas are to die for.
Grab a quick breakfast or lunch at the Boqueria Market on La Rambla, Europe’s largest market. There are a number of eateries here; try Pinotxo for tapas, Bar Boqueria for great tortillas or Organic for vegetarian fare. Alternatively, pick up some fresh fruit, bread and cheese for an easy lunch to go.
For great food at affordable prices, check out Cerveseria Catalana (Carrer de Mallorca 236). The ambience is crowded and noisy, but the tapas can’t be beat.
Where to Stay
Although tourism in Barcelona reaches its peak over the summer months, Barcelona sees large numbers of visitors all year round — so be sure to book your hotel in advance no matter when you’re traveling. Visitors seeking modern, upscale hotels will find plenty of choice in the Eixample neighborhood, while Barri Gotic is home to a number of more affordable options. Stay near the port for sea views and easy access to La Rambla. Rental apartments can be a charming and affordable alternative to hotels.
Centrally located right on La Rambla, Le Meridien Barcelona offers spacious, stylishly decorated rooms and suites — as well as free Wi-Fi throughout the property.
The elegant, 40-room Duquesa de Cardona is located right across from Port Vell, within walking distance of La Rambla. There’s an open-air terrace with a cocktail bar and plunge pool on the top floor, a wonderful place to relax on Barcelona’s many warm, sunny days. Ask for a deluxe room with a harbor view.
Looking to splurge? The Hotel Arts Barcelona is a modern, arty, totally upscale hotel — part of the Ritz-Carlton chain — right on the Mediterranean in the port district.
In Eixample, the upscale neighborhood just north of Placa de Catalunya, the Silken Gran Hotel Havana simply oozes history and atmosphere. Amenities include a restaurant, piano bar, swimming pool and sauna.
For a moderately priced stay in the city’s lovely Gothic Quarter, try the Regencia Colon Hotel. Rooms are on the small side but very clean.
The Patio is a small bed and breakfast tucked away in the Eixample neighborhood, offering two rooms with exposed brick walls and elegant decor. Rates are very affordable for both solo travelers and couples.
Where to Shop
Barcelona is a haven for stylish travelers, offering a wealth of fine clothes, shoes and leather goods. (This is the place to buy that designer leather jacket you’ve been dying for.) The Barri Gotic is packed with offbeat little shops, while Eixample is home to chi-chi designer boutiques. Purchases in Spain are subject to an IVA (value-added tax), which non-E.U. citizens can get refunded if the total spent is more than 90.15 euros. Just ask for a tax-free receipt when you make the purchase and show it — along with your purchases — at customs. For more information, click here.
El Corte Ingles, Spain’s largest department store chain in the heart of the city, offers an immense variety and is a real Spanish experience. There are multiple locations around the city, including Placa de Catalunya.
Barcelona’s big-name designer boutiques — Chanel, Benetton, Armani — are clustered along elegant Passeig de Gracia, which runs from Placa de Catalunya to Carrer Gran de Gracia. In addition to high fashion and designer merchandise, this avenue also has some lovely examples of Art Nouveau buildings.
More big-name stores, as well as independent boutiques, can be found along Avinguda Diagonal (make a left off of Passeig de Gracia when heading north).
Barceloneta was, at one time, a fishing village. This beachfront neighborhood, filled with narrow, brightly colored houses (and a pretty nice beach), faces the Mediterranean. Following the waterfront, continue on to Port Olimpic, which has shops, cafes and bars. Port Vell, just beyond, has restaurants and Maremagnum, a big fancy shopping mall, complete with IMAX theater.
The Barri Gotic neighborhood has a number of independent shops, including antique stores.
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SPAIN@FriendsTravel.com |